Question 1

Which Essex towns do you cover?

Accepted Answer

Romford, Ilford, Hornchurch, Upminster, Brentwood, Billericay, Basildon, Chelmsford, Colchester, Southend-on-Sea, Epping, Loughton, Harlow, Braintree and the villages between. We are based on the London–Essex border, so most of the county is a short run and there is no travel charge.

Question 2

Are Essex tilers cheaper than London tilers?

Accepted Answer

Slightly, yes — typically 5–15% lower on labour, because overheads like Congestion Charge, ULEZ and permit parking do not apply and access is far easier. The specification does not change: same adhesives, same tanking systems, same guarantee. If you are in Essex you simply get the London standard for a little less.

Question 3

Do you work in new-build homes and extensions in Essex?

Accepted Answer

Constantly. Essex has a lot of new stock and a lot of extensions, which brings a specific set of issues: fresh screed that has not finished drying, underfloor heating that needs a decoupling membrane, and plasterboard walls that will not carry large-format porcelain without boarding out. We check screed moisture before tiling rather than after the floor cracks.

Question 4

How much do tilers charge per square metre in London?

Accepted Answer

Most London tiling work lands between £45 and £90 per square metre for labour, plus materials. Standard 300x600mm ceramic wall tiling sits at the lower end; large-format porcelain (over 1200mm), mosaic, herringbone, Victorian geometric and natural stone sit at the upper end because they need more setting out, more cutting and often a levelling system. Small rooms are usually priced as a job rather than per m², because a 2m² cloakroom still needs the same preparation, cuts and silicone work as a big bathroom.

Question 5

Which tile should I choose — porcelain, ceramic or natural stone?

Accepted Answer

Porcelain is the default for floors, wet rooms and outdoors: it is fired denser, absorbs under 0.5% water and is frost resistant. Ceramic is cheaper and lighter, which makes it ideal for walls and splashbacks but not for heavy floor traffic. Natural stone (marble, limestone, travertine, slate) gives the best depth of character but is porous, needs sealing before and after grouting, and needs a pH-neutral cleaner for life. If you want stone looks with zero maintenance, choose a rectified stone-effect porcelain.

Question 6

Do you supply the tiles or do I buy them?

Accepted Answer

Either. Most clients buy their own tiles because choosing them is the fun part, and we will tell you before you order whether the tile is suitable for the substrate, the room and the layout you want. If you would rather we handled it, we buy through trade suppliers in London and Essex and pass the trade discount on. Always order 10% extra (15% for herringbone, diagonal or Victorian patterns) so cuts and future repairs come from the same batch.

Question 7

How long does a bathroom or kitchen tiling job take?

Accepted Answer

A typical bathroom is 2–4 days: one day preparation and tanking, one to two days tiling, then grouting and silicone once the adhesive has cured. A kitchen splashback is often a single day. Large-format porcelain floors and Victorian geometric patterns take longer because of setting out and cutting. We give you a day-by-day schedule with the quote so you know when the room is usable again.

Question 8

Do you tile over existing tiles?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes, and only when it is the right call. The existing tiles must be firmly bonded, flat, and the wall must carry the extra weight — we tap-test the whole area first. Tiling over old tiles saves the mess of removal but it moves the finished surface forward, which affects door frames, sockets, shower trays and skirtings. On floors we almost always recommend removal, because a hollow or drummy tile underneath will telegraph a crack straight into your new floor.

Question 9

What grout and adhesive do you use?

Accepted Answer

Adhesive is chosen for the tile and the substrate: flexible S1/S2 cement-based adhesive for porcelain, boards and underfloor heating, rapid-set where we need to grout the same day, and white adhesive under glass, marble and other translucent tiles. Grout is cement-based for most walls and floors, and epoxy where staining or chemicals are a risk — wet rooms, kitchen worktops, pool surrounds, commercial kitchens. Movement joints and silicone go in every internal corner and change of plane; grout in a corner will always crack.

Question 10

Are you insured, and is the work guaranteed?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We carry public liability insurance and give a written workmanship guarantee on every installation, with the tanking (waterproofing) covered separately by the manufacturer's system warranty when we install a full wet-room kit. You get the certificates with your quote, not after you ask.

Question 11

Can you tile over underfloor heating?

Accepted Answer

Yes — porcelain and stone are the best possible finishes over underfloor heating because they conduct heat well. We install a decoupling or uncoupling membrane over the heating layer, use flexible S2 adhesive, and commission the heating slowly: leave it off for at least 7 days after grouting, then raise it 5°C per day. Rushing the first heat-up is the single most common cause of cracked tiles over UFH.

Question 12

What is the largest tile you can lay on a wall?

Accepted Answer

We regularly install 1200x600mm and 1600x800mm porcelain on walls, and slabs up to 3200x1600mm on feature walls with a two-person suction frame. Anything above 600mm needs a flat, plumb substrate (we check with a 2m straight edge and skim or board out where needed), back-buttering, and a levelling clip system so no corner lips. Weight matters too: plaster alone will not hold large-format porcelain, so we fix to tile backer board or render.

Question 13

Do you tank and waterproof wet rooms and showers?

Accepted Answer

Always, and it is not optional. Every shower enclosure and wet room gets a full tanking system — primer, liquid membrane or bonded sheet, plus corner and pipe collars — installed to the manufacturer's specification before a single tile goes on. In a wet room we form the falls into the tray or screed so water runs to the drain rather than sitting in the corners. Tiles and grout are not waterproof; the membrane behind them is.

Question 14

Which tile size makes a small bathroom look bigger?

Accepted Answer

Fewer grout lines read as more space, so a large-format 600x600mm or 800x800mm floor tile run continuously into the shower usually beats small tiles. Rectified porcelain with a 2mm joint and a grout matched to the tile colour disappears; a contrasting grout draws a grid and shrinks the room. Vertical stack-bond or a tall metro layout lifts the eye and adds perceived ceiling height.

Question 15

Can you do herringbone, chevron and metro brick-bond layouts?

Accepted Answer

Yes — herringbone, double herringbone, chevron, stack bond, brick bond, basketweave and 45° diagonal. These layouts need a laser-set centre line and a lot more cutting, so allow 15% extra tiles and expect a higher labour rate than a straight grid. Chevron in particular needs mitre-cut ends, so the tile must be strong enough to hold a 45° edge — porcelain yes, soft ceramic often no.

Question 16

How do you deal with uneven walls and floors before tiling?

Accepted Answer

We survey first: a 2m straight edge and laser level tell us the real story. Walls get dot-and-dab backer board, a render coat or a skim depending on the deviation. Floors get a self-levelling compound over primer, or a plywood overboard on timber joists, with a decoupling membrane where movement or a screed crack is a risk. Nine out of ten tiling failures are substrate failures, so this stage is where the job is actually won.

Tilers in Essex with London standards and no London surcharge

In short

What Essex jobs usually involve

Essex tiling services

Bathrooms & wet rooms

Kitchen & extension floors

Patios, balconies & pools

Period & Victorian floors

Essex towns we cover

Get a fixed price

Tilers in Essex — your questions answered

Next steps

Tilers in London

Outdoor porcelain patios done properly

Tiling over underfloor heating