Question 1

How much do tilers charge per square metre in London?

Accepted Answer

Most London tiling work lands between £45 and £90 per square metre for labour, plus materials. Standard 300x600mm ceramic wall tiling sits at the lower end; large-format porcelain (over 1200mm), mosaic, herringbone, Victorian geometric and natural stone sit at the upper end because they need more setting out, more cutting and often a levelling system. Small rooms are usually priced as a job rather than per m², because a 2m² cloakroom still needs the same preparation, cuts and silicone work as a big bathroom.

Question 2

Which tile should I choose — porcelain, ceramic or natural stone?

Accepted Answer

Porcelain is the default for floors, wet rooms and outdoors: it is fired denser, absorbs under 0.5% water and is frost resistant. Ceramic is cheaper and lighter, which makes it ideal for walls and splashbacks but not for heavy floor traffic. Natural stone (marble, limestone, travertine, slate) gives the best depth of character but is porous, needs sealing before and after grouting, and needs a pH-neutral cleaner for life. If you want stone looks with zero maintenance, choose a rectified stone-effect porcelain.

Question 3

Do you supply the tiles or do I buy them?

Accepted Answer

Either. Most clients buy their own tiles because choosing them is the fun part, and we will tell you before you order whether the tile is suitable for the substrate, the room and the layout you want. If you would rather we handled it, we buy through trade suppliers in London and Essex and pass the trade discount on. Always order 10% extra (15% for herringbone, diagonal or Victorian patterns) so cuts and future repairs come from the same batch.

Question 4

How long does a bathroom or kitchen tiling job take?

Accepted Answer

A typical bathroom is 2–4 days: one day preparation and tanking, one to two days tiling, then grouting and silicone once the adhesive has cured. A kitchen splashback is often a single day. Large-format porcelain floors and Victorian geometric patterns take longer because of setting out and cutting. We give you a day-by-day schedule with the quote so you know when the room is usable again.

Question 5

Do you tile over existing tiles?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes, and only when it is the right call. The existing tiles must be firmly bonded, flat, and the wall must carry the extra weight — we tap-test the whole area first. Tiling over old tiles saves the mess of removal but it moves the finished surface forward, which affects door frames, sockets, shower trays and skirtings. On floors we almost always recommend removal, because a hollow or drummy tile underneath will telegraph a crack straight into your new floor.

Question 6

What grout and adhesive do you use?

Accepted Answer

Adhesive is chosen for the tile and the substrate: flexible S1/S2 cement-based adhesive for porcelain, boards and underfloor heating, rapid-set where we need to grout the same day, and white adhesive under glass, marble and other translucent tiles. Grout is cement-based for most walls and floors, and epoxy where staining or chemicals are a risk — wet rooms, kitchen worktops, pool surrounds, commercial kitchens. Movement joints and silicone go in every internal corner and change of plane; grout in a corner will always crack.

Question 7

Are you insured, and is the work guaranteed?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We carry public liability insurance and give a written workmanship guarantee on every installation, with the tanking (waterproofing) covered separately by the manufacturer's system warranty when we install a full wet-room kit. You get the certificates with your quote, not after you ask.

Question 8

Can you tile over underfloor heating?

Accepted Answer

Yes — porcelain and stone are the best possible finishes over underfloor heating because they conduct heat well. We install a decoupling or uncoupling membrane over the heating layer, use flexible S2 adhesive, and commission the heating slowly: leave it off for at least 7 days after grouting, then raise it 5°C per day. Rushing the first heat-up is the single most common cause of cracked tiles over UFH.

Get a tiling quote today

Get a fixed price

Before you get in touch